Born in 1883, Gaston-Louis Vuitton was a prominent figure in the history of luxury travel and accessories house Louis Vuitton, helming the brand from 1907, and influential right up until his death in 1970.
As the third-generation of Vuittons to enter the family firm, Gaston-Louis played a pivotal role in shaping the modern identity of the Maison, and left a unique, unforgettable and lasting mark on the company, as well as on the world of luxury and craftsmanship.
Pivotal to the current image of Louis Vuitton, Gaston-Louis revelled in the spirit of travel, viewing it as an art form rather than a mere means of transportation. His vision elevated the act of journeying to a realm of discovery and delight.
For him, the craft of trunk-making, for which Louis Vuitton became renowned, was not just about making luggage but creating a canvas to express the stories of voyages.
A multifaceted devourer of culture, Gaston-Louis was an ardent aesthete and a passionate collector of fine objects.
His love for artistry extended beyond the realm of fashion and his personal collection included a diverse array of rare and exquisite items, such as antique tsubas (Japanese katana sword guards).
These objects not only served as a source of inspiration but also became integral to the design and symbolism of Louis Vuitton’s creations, as evidenced in the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders timepiece trilogy.
Spanning two World Wars, Gaston-Louis oversaw a period of significant transformation and growth within Louis Vuitton and was a key player in expanding the company’s offering to include a wide range of leather goods and accessories, an approach that laid the foundation for Louis Vuitton’s evolution into a global luxury brand.
But beyond business, Gaston-Louis was deeply engaged in artistic pursuits. He was a skilled engraver, lithographer, and photographer. His talents contributed to the artistic transformation of Louis Vuitton’s storefronts, which became splendid showcases of collaboration with renowned creative talents of the time.
The store windows displayed the very best examples of craftsmanship, showcasing the Maison’s unwavering commitment to excellence.
The tokens of his fascination with artistry and decorative techniques served as a testament to his enduring influence on the Maison and today Gaston-Louis’ legacy lives on through the objects that it inspires, such as the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders Trilogy, a fitting tribute to his passion for art, travel, and timeless elegance.
Following the introduction of a redesigned and streamlined Tambour in 2023, which will form the base collection of all Louis Vuitton’s production watchmaking going forward, the Maison has this year turned its attentions to its more classical Escale, introducing a fresh aesthetic and a new mechanical approach.
From the subtly curved bezel to the hand-polished lugs reminiscent of the brackets on one of Louis Vuitton’s trunks, every refinement reflects a commitment to design.
For the Cabinet of Wonders Trilogy, Seigaiha waves, symbolic of the ocean, and a talismanic motif associated with good fortune and wellbeing, adorn the case bands, buckles, and movement bridges.
Each 40mm case is in white or rose gold, has 50 meters of water resistance and features a stone-set crown (onyx for the Koi’s Garden, carnelian for the Dragon’s Cloud and nephrite jade for the Snake’s Jungle) and stands at just over 12mm high.
Within the case is a Caliber LFT023 self-winding, hours and minutes movement with 50 hours of power reserve. The straps of the watches are hand braided calf leather inspired by the tsuka–ito – the handles of Japanese swords traditionally made of silk, cotton or leather.
Made at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Maison’s manufacture that was founded, and is now run, by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the trio of Escale Cabinet of Wonders pays homage to Gaston-Louis’ wondrous collection by uniting the expertise of in-house and external artists.
Artisans such as Eddy Jaquet (hand engraving), Fanny Queloz (damascening), Rose Saneuil (marquetry), and Vanessa Lecci (enameler), were brought together by the teams of Louis Vuitton and La Fabrique du Temps, and under the creative direction of Marie Boutteçon – an artist and watch designer with a decade of expertise in collaborations with luxury brands.
According to Navas, “Enrico and I are very happy. It is a real adventure and a total pleasure to be working with Jean Arnault [director of watches at Louis Vuitton]. He loves this world of mechanics and high watchmaking.”
As for how much Jean is directly involved in the day-to-day of running the watch manufacture, Navas is clear: “He is totally involved. The idea to pay tribute to Gaston-Louis Vuitton with this triptych was one that grew between Jean, Marie Boutteçon and the entire La Fabrique du Temps team.
“At La Fabrique du Temps we want to gather all the savoir faire and artistic techniques in each artisanal field, and for this watch we needed so much know-how that we had to bring in additional skills from outside, for example in marquetry and damascene. For me as a watchmaker, it is a joy to surround myself with all this different expertise. I respect my horological heritage but I really look forward to collaborating with all this craftsmanship.”
Two years in development, the Escale Cabinet of Wonders watches, embark on a journey through the legacy of the Vuitton dynasty, Gaston-Louis was not merely a custodian of tradition but a visionary with an insatiable curiosity.
Weaving together the essence of Art Deco opulence and the cultural nuances of a luminary who crossed the globe delighting in its rewards, the Cabinet of Wonders trilogy showcases the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and the revival of traditional decorative techniques, intertwining the worlds of nature and of fantasy.
According to Navas: “Gaston-Louis was very important to the family business. He loved Japanese objet and was incredibly passionate about Japanese art. He had almost 1,000 tsuba in his house and the inspiration for the Escale Trilogy of Wonders comes from the different animals that are portrayed in them.”
Louis Vuitton Koi’s Garden
The Koi’s Garden model is a serene masterpiece housed in a white-gold case. The piece involved skilled artisans working for up to 150 hours, and portrays two hand-engraved carp engaged in a mesmerizing dance within a crystalline stream.
The amber and white pebbles on the dial, sculpted from smoky quartz and rock crystal, or set with diamonds, create an ethereal scene reminiscent of sunlight dancing on water.
Gaston-Louis’ GLV monogram graces the undulating lines of water, completing this exquisite narrative of tranquillity and precision.
Louis Vuitton Snake’s Jungle
Set against the backdrop of a multi-layered bamboo forest, the Snake’s Jungle features a tableau of a reticulated serpent in vibrant shades of blue and green, the reptile’s gaze fixated on a suspended orb of gold and nephrite jade that forms the monogram of Gaston-Louis Vuitton.
A work of art in marquetry, the lush foliage of the watch dial is made from 367 separate pieces of wood, parchment and straw. The serpent, is the finest 3D micro-sculpture, adorned with engraving and champlevé enamelling. The bamboo leaves tumble over the edge of the dial and onto the case band.
Louis Vuitton Dragon’s Cloud
The Dragon’s Cloud is a masterpiece in rose gold, revealing a majestic dragon clutching a carnelian-set GLV monogram. The damascene technique, where motifs are created through contrasting colors of decorative inlay, often found on Japanese swords is employed for this model. The dial plate undergoes hammering and inlaying with yellow-gold and rose-gold wires, creating a layered appearance reminiscent of organic textures in nature.
The dragon’s scales are filled with paillonné enamel – an increasingly rare technique where tiny pieces of gold leaf are incorporated into the enamel. The dragon’s eye is highlighted with a cabochon-cut ruby representing mystery and wisdom.
Each of the three Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders watches is limited to 20 pieces.
